Guam is often overlooked when it comes to America’s islands, overshadowed by others like Puerto Rico and Hawaii. Guam, which is located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, deserves more credit—not only does it have a rich cultural scene and fascinating history, but it’s home to some of the world’s most picturesque beaches and landscapes.
THE HISTORY
Guam is located in the Western Pacific in a region known widely as Micronesia. It is the largest island in the Mariana Islands chain, which also includes Saipan, Rota, and Tinian. Over 4,000 years ago, Guam became one of the first islands to be settled by seafaring peoples, who arrived from islands off Southeast Asia, like Taiwan. By 800 A.D., they had formed a society with villages constructed of latte houses, which are impressive one-story houses set atop rows of two-piece stone columns. The people, who became known as the indigenous people of Guam or Chamorros, had a matrilineal society based on fishing and agriculture and even made pottery and cultivated rice.
In 1521, Ferdinand Magellan, the Portuguese Catholic explorer, landed on Guam but did not develop an interest in the island. He disliked the Chamorros and viewed the island as unbeneficial to the Spanish’s exploration mission. The European disinterest in the island allowed Guam to remain relatively untouched for many years until 1668, when a Jesuit missionary, Father San Vitores, arrived. Due to his aggressive and harsh nature, there was a lot of violence and tension between his peoples and the Chamorros. The violence eventually erupted into a full blown 26-year war between the Spanish and the Chamorros, which ended with much of the native peoples’ population destroyed. The remaining native peoples were to remain in new villages, overseen by Spanish priests. Many of their cultural traditions were discouraged, even the speaking of their own language, which resulted in many of the traditions being lost through the assimilation. Even the Chamorro language, which is still spoken on the island today, borrows 55% of its vocabulary from Spanish. The most popular religion on the island is Roman Catholicism, also thanks to the forced assimilation of the people.
By 1898, after years of Spanish rule, the U.S. acquired Guam as a territory after the Spanish-American War. Instead of allowing the people of Guam to construct a democratic, representative government where they could vote and voice their opinions, they were placed under the jurisdiction of the Secretary of the Navy. A series of military governors had complete authority over the island and its people, essentially ruling under martial law. The Chamorros tried numerous times to ask for democracy and freedom— to become their own citizens—but were denied each time.
In 1941, on December 7th, the U.S. naval base in Honolulu, Hawaii, Pearl Harbor, was bombed by the Japanese during World War II. What is less known is that Guam was actually bombed too—four hours after Pearl Harbor was. It was a brief air and sea attack that ended with Japanese troops seizing the island and controlling it for the next three years. During this time, the Japanese imposed different levels of government on the Chamorro people, attempting to assimilate them into Japanese culture. English was banned and children were taught how to read, write, and speak Japanese in schools. They also seized assets, destroyed some homes, and exhausted food supplies, with resulted in food shortages throughout the island. In 1944, the last year of the Japanese occupation of Guam, a stricter level of government was imposed. Social activities ended, schools were closed; and the Chamorro people, including children over 12, were forced to work long hours in the field and dig hundreds of Japanese cave shelters. The mistreatment of the scorned Chamorro people didn’t end there either. 10,000 to 15,000 of these native peoples were forced to march into the island’s jungles to be placed in internment camps.
Between July 21st and August 10th of 1944, American troops returned to Guam to take back the island from the Japanese, resulting in the Battle of Guam. Americans suffered 1,700 dead and 6,000 wounded, while Japanese deaths totaled 18,000.
The U.S. had regained control of Guam, and by 1948, the U.S. military and other federal agencies had taken 42% of the land, mostly for military bases. Today, the military still controls more than one-third of the island’s land, and it remains a colony of the United States, classified as an unincorporated territory.
THE PEOPLE
The Chamorro people have definitely endured a lot of trauma and devastation as a people, but their spirits remain high and their warm, friendly attitudes prove that they are a resilient, lovely group. They make up 37.3% of the population, while Filipinos account for 26.3%, whites 7.1%, and Chuukese 7%. Koreans, other Pacific Islanders, Chinese, Japanese, and other ethnicities are also present on the island.
Chamorros have been heavily influenced by Spanish culture due to the assimilation they were forced to undergo many years ago. Because of this, Catholic churches have been the center of village activities. Every village has its patron saint whose feast day is celebrated with a huge party. Over 85% of Guam’s population is Roman Catholic.
However, some Chamorros have preserved the pre-colonization traditions and beliefs. They believe that their ancestors have lived in Guam and the other Mariana islands since the beginning of time and hold a deep respect for ancestral spirits (taotaomo’na). Every year on All Soul’s Day, they remember their ancestors by holding special memorial services and decorating their graves with flowers, candles, photographs, and other mementos. They also believe that these ancestral spirits occupy certain trees and other areas deep within the jungles. Often, they will ask these spirits for permission before entering a jungle.
Some Chamorros will also consult with spiritual mediums called makahna who they believe can see both the physical and spiritual world. Similarly, there are also suruhanu, or herbal healers, who cure illness with herbs and other natural materials from the Earth.
Music is another main part of the culture on the island, using traditional instruments, such as the belembaotuyan, which is made from a hollow gourd and strung with a taut wire. When pressed against one’s bare stomach, it creates a melodic sound. The nose flute, once a long forgotten instrument, is now making a return to the island musical scene as well.
When there is music there is singing of course! Kantan Chamorro style of singing has been a favorite form of entertainment for generations. Singing has historically been used in Chamorro culture to make hours of group work activity—like weaving, corn husking, and net fishing—go by faster. One singer would begin the familiar four-line chant, referring romantically or teasingly to another person in the group. The person mentioned in the song would then take up the tune, continuing this way and switching between singers for hours.
THE FOOD
Food is an integral part in understanding any culture and that is no different when looking at the native peoples of Guam. Their cuisine is influenced by many cultures including Spain, the Philippines, Japan, and others. Local delicacies include red rice, shrimp patties, a Filipino-style noodle dish called pancit, barbecued ribs and chicken, and taro leaves cooked in coconut milk. The most notable Chamorro food is kelaguen, usually prepared from chopped broiled chicken, lemon juice, grated coconut, and hot peppers. Spicy finadene sauce, made with soy sauce, lemon juice or vinegar, hot peppers, and onions, is sprinkled over the food for the finishing touch! After a fulfilling meal, Chamorros enjoy chewing pugua (betel nut), mixed with powdered lime and wrapped in pepper leaf.
THE ISLAND
And of course, what would Guam be without its wonderful, breathtaking beaches and landscapes? The island is home to some of the most stunning natural sights in the Pacific Ocean! Guam, composed of 212 square miles, actually has 40 stunning beaches. The most popular, Ritidian Point, has white sand beaches and crystal clear waters, complete with swaying palm trees and colorful coral reefs. The beach is also connected to Guam National Wildlife Refuge, a 1,203-acre park that provides amazing wildlife sighting opportunities. Some animals that roam this park are fruit bats, coconut crabs, Ko’ko birds, green turtles, and tree snails. There are also archaeological artifacts and other remnants of ancient Chamorro culture available for viewing here.
fws.gov/refuge/guam
Speaking of parks, Guam has plenty of those to explore as well. War in the Pacific National Park is huge and showcases “the bravery, courage, and sacrifice of those participating in the campaigns of the Pacific Theater of World War II.” Former battlefields, trenches, cannons, and other relics of war can be seen here as well as gorgeous natural sights like Asan Beach, Mount Chacho, Sigua Falls, and Tarzan Falls.
nps.gov/wapa/index.htm
There are plenty more astonishing experiences to encounter on the island of Guam like climbing the magnificent mountains, trying street food in Chamorro village, lazily lying on green sand in Talofofo Beach, and getting a peek at sea life at Fish Eye Marine Park. This island is truly one in a million!
By Aaliyah Pasols